![]() Sonoff DualR3 and eWeLink app offer 3 switch modes for detection. It pairs in the instant and eWeLink walks you through the setup process. Pairing is done over Bluetooth instead of the traditional AP point. Sonoff DUALR3 comes with a small bracket that can be used to mount on a DIN rail or on walls with 2 screws. This could be an ideal device to use for the garage door opener. Output 100 -240V AC 10A per gang (15A total)Īs you can see the despite being small, it packs a punch, as long as you stay clear of high inductive loads as wiring schematics include instructions to connect a motor.The smart switch comes with the following specification: Terminals are made of metal and look sturdy, to accommodate the lighting wires. It’s worth noting that Sonoff DualR3 required Live and Neutral access to work, so you will have to settle on ceiling fixture or amount behind the wall switch based on your location and wiring standard. You’ll have to splice the cable to make it work. It can operate 2 switches and 2 gangs, but the number of terminals smaller than the number of cables required to pull it off. Upon closer inspection, Sonoff DualR3 has fewer terminals than I would like. It’s WiFi-based and as usual with Sonoff devices, you can link it up with eWeLink devices and take the advantage of smart assistant integration: Google Home and Alexa. It’s only slightly bigger than it’s older brother Sonoff Mini ( review), which should fit comfortably behind the wall switch. As the name suggests, two is the magic number! Let’s see what else can we do with it. A switch that is small enough to sit behind the wall switch and powerful enough to tackle multiple gangs individually. ![]() This time, Sonoff people decided to marry Sonoff Mini ( review) with Sonoff Dual and then use it to make babies with Sonoff POWR2 ( review)- to create Sonoff DUALR3. Your mileage may vary.Another month, another product from ITEAD. Most have this wiring as standard in my area. Most newer homes in my area (like since the 70's) have been wired with Romex. So, if you have 3 wires, Black, White, and Bare, you should be able to use the Insteon switches. You can buy a plugn device at most home improvement stores that will tell you if your wiring is right when you plug it in. Provided that the outlet was wired right in the first place. All others can carry electricity and can hurt you. The way I remember it is, if you open up a wall or outlet box, the bare, white, or green wires are safe. Then the other wire to the light(s) connect to the white Neutral wire from the wall. Insteon Red wire = Connects to the light(s) Insteon White wire = White Neutral wire from wall Insteon Black wire = Black wire from wall Insteon Bare Copper = Bare ground wire from wall My house is wired with three conductor wires. I'm going to make a statement, and you can correct me if I'm wrong. There's some electrician out there that needs a thumping! The hot wire coming into the second switch in question was NOT labeled as such, and gave me a fit for a minute or two because of it. And I completely agree on the labeling - it's a pet peeve of mine when people don't do it. I've done a lot or wiring over the years and I've never run into something that seems so simple yet just doesnt' seem to work. Are you sure you hooked the other end up to a neutral?Well, there's always the chance that I goofed on something, but I'm normally very careful and I remember triple checking it with the meter. Why I blew out your switch does not make sense. Do I have to run a new three wire from the light to my switch to get the neutral? Or can I run a wire from the socket below it, even though it is on a different circuit?Īs for using the red traveler for a neutral, I don't see why not. Anyone have an easy way to correct this then? Looks like power goes to the light then just one two pair wire down to my switch. I would rather go with Insteon on this circuit, however. I ended up using an RX PLC X10 switch, one of the few that requires no neutral. It seems logical to me, but I fried a new Insteon switch doing it, and can't figure out how. Why couldn't the red traveler wire (which runs directly from switch box one to switch box two) be repurposed as the neutral wire? The traveler wire (often red-color) is now essentially doing nothing One needs a neutral at each switch (as is the case with all Insteon devices currently in production)Ĭonversion of existing 3-way circuits results in the switch that carries the load (i.e., the "second" switch) having a white-color "hot" wire and a black-color return (a fairly common situation) I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I think most everyone would agree on not using the ground as a neutral. But this brings up another question that applies to those of us moving to, say, Insteon and having certain types of 3-way switches. I completely agree - using the ground is a VERY BAD idea and completely unsafe.
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